Posts Tagged 'jeans'

hoarding/smart buying

Perhaps this a testament to my personality–overindulging in good things. I think we’re all a bit guilty of this to a certain extent. In the sartorial sense, though, I’m definitely a culprit. I find a well-cut, perfect-fitting, great looking something and I buy it over and over again in every color available. Well, not every color… just all the good ones. I mean, as much as I like to shop, I really hate shopping. What it all comes down to, really, is getting that perfect end result, nothing else is more important. The perfect fitting ____. The ultimate pair of ____. I just want that end result. I can do without the time wasted searching racks, the awkward encounters with store clerks (“Sir, do you need any help?” “No. No I don’t fucking need help. I’m here every weekend and what are you trying to say? I can’t dress well? I’ll crush your soul in my hand if its indeed palpable, infidel.”), the inevitable run-in with someone you don’t want to see, or just plain having to hold a shopping bag for the rest of the day. I say this all to justify what I am about to reveal to you in this post. My mild hoarding problem.

Case 1: Dress Shoes.

4 pairs of the same cap toe shoes.

Left to right we’ve got the brown and black ones I take regular care of, as I wear them to work 4/5 days of the week. Third pair are for leisure, as you’ll seen in the pictures to follow, they’re in need of some polish and have been given the rubber sole treatment to solidify their semi-laid-back demeanor. Last are the untouched, black patent leather version I’ve yet to wear. I’m saving these for a special black tie affair, at which point I’ll also need to buy a tuxedo.

All in all, I just love the way these shoes look, fit, and feel. I also like that they’ve been discontinued (which may be the reason for my scrambling to get 4 pairs in a year’s time) and they’re (in my mind, at least) my signature look.

Case 2: Jeans

I’m not buying into the idea of $100+ jeans. First of all, I can’t afford to. Second of all, I fail to see what benefits I’m receiving from spending suit-money on leisure/work wear. For $40 ($30 on Tuesdays, sometimes) H&M has provided me with more than enough denim to last me a decade. They’re tough enough to withstand a long wear-in period and develop their own natural aging. My favorite cut, the “Sliq” is slim, trim, and yet does not create a ‘civil war de la crotch’ if you know what I mean (choosing sides… you get it now). I used to wear them day in and day out during my manual labor contracting days, 2 years ago, without so much as a rip or busted rivet. Please, fashion snobs, snuff me all you like, but I love my trusty $40 jeans–all 6 pairs of them.

Only 5 pairs shown--was wearing the 6th. Sue me.

Case 3: T-shirts

Similar to my jeans, I buy all my t-shirts at H&M as well. I can’t justify $20 a pop for everyone’s organic, sacred virgin, ringspun, cupid-blessed, dragon-slaying, dream-weaving cotton undershirts. It’s a bit ridiculous for a plain t-shirt. I don’t care how soft it is. I’m a grown man, I can manage having some “un-pure” less than semi-precious cotton against my skin. Plain white undershirts I wear under my dress shirts for work everyday, I buy in a 5 pack from Hanes–simple. For plain t-shirts that actually see the light of day, I go with H&M’s $5 v-necks. Half of the time they’re making some kind of organic, natural, something or other claim like their $20+ superiors, all the while remaining at a cool $5-6 a pop. They’re soft, versatile, and shrink about a 1/2 size down as expected. Plus, I don’t have to change my t-shirt when I actually want to get my hands dirty with something around the house or fixing the bike. Amazing, I know, a t-shirt you don’t have to be careful with. I have upwards of 10 of these things, and I pick up another almost every time I walk in the store.

plain old t-shirts

on the radar for fall 2009

1. Jeans Jacket

right.

right.

also right

also right

very wrong.

very wrong.

2. Cuffed Jeans

clean and crisp. GAP selvage limited ed. $88

clean and crisp. GAP selvage limited ed. $88

3. Double-breasted Blazer

only $2,195, exclusively at select Barneys New York

only $2,195, exclusively at select Barneys New York

for real people:

$198, you're lucky i love you and gave you this link. goldmine.

$198, you're lucky i love you and gave you this link. goldmine.

ps. check out the twitter feed, i throw out links all day long and keep the personal talk to a minimum.

twitter.com/manshion

light dirty jeans, might just be alright…

As I sit here at my desk, sifting through headlines, looking at the new ridiculousness to come off the runway, and thinking about what to write… I come up with nothing. I think about these rules and guidelines I’ve created, and about the way I’ve applied them to myself. Then I think about how they confine me and where I can perhaps try something new. From here (after this mythical, trans-galaxial journey through the amazing depths of my mind’s manshion portal… overcoming a seemingly endless minute of writer’s block) I realized I only wear dark washed jeans.  The kind you  normally see with a shirt, tie, and blazer. The kind that add a refinement of their own to an outfit, and can make your “casual” seem a bit classier.

Today, though, I’m going to explore lighter, dirtier, rougher jeans, and if they can add a bit of character to a classy look.

My Inspiration:

9128rlmensjeansweb

How I would do this:

  • I think the loafers are a little over-the-top (I’m just not an o.t.t. kind of guy) and would do more justice with a less flashy outfit
  • Flashy? Yes, the jeans are the centerpiece of attention but with the shoes and the double-breasted blazer all on the same day… it’s just a lot to take in.
  • Simpler loafers
  • Perhaps keep the DB look but try for a modern, single button peak lapel style jacket
  • Pocket square.. depends what side of the bed I wake up on

I can see…

I see this up top, with dirty denim and the following loafers...

I see this up top, with dirty denim and the following loafers...

toobootloafers

Hard to find exactly what I’m trying to go far here…

  • Jared Leto’s got the overall gist of it right, just without the flashy pinstripes
  • His denim’s fade works in blue (not black with the brown loafers or if you’re not wearing that black and white scarf thing), or the lighter, mangled jeans in the first picture work as well
  • Scarf is very much optional (opt for something that caters to brown and navy rather than black), but I definitely like the laid-back banker’s collar shirt
  • Un-tucked shirt works, but only if your shirt is trim and straight-cut, not tunic-like
  • Plus like my parents tell me… “if you didn’t have the pennies in your loafers-you weren’t shit”… so grab a penny, call a friend and find another, and invest in your footwear

Oh Yea, and check out Comme des Garcons for H&M today at your nearest H&M store. Should be some great limited edition, well-designed, nicely priced pieces there. However, if you’re in NY, forget about it at this point. I hear the store’s been pillaged, ransacked, somewhat engulfed in flames, and, of course, left for dead.

colorful pants

Today really is a new day in men’s fashion as I find myself contemplating the idea of buying pants outside of the black, brown (lets include tan and khaki in here), and blue (denim or navy anything) realms. Crazytalk, I know. Scarier than the idea of parting with money for RED PANTS during times like these is the idea of walking outside in them. But alas, that’s what they pay me to do. (This is a lie. In all actuality, this is what I pay to do and waste time on to tell you about… ah hobbies are great).

So I saw these on Levis.com last week and was intrigued.  I had ruled myself out of the colored pants category after a humorously over-the-top preppy phase in my college days, but for some reason these pants spoke to me.  The zipper opened and created a mouth that pursed its lips.  The top of the front pockets cinched up like concerned eyes. Then the denim uttered the most glorious sound. It was a female voice… she said, “Editor of manshion.net…. your time has come… step into a colorful pant… one leg at a time, the world of assorted leg-coverings shall be yours.” I then put her in the freezer.

Much like the photo demonstrates, I’d suggest toning down the loudness of the pants with conservative colors… black, grey, brown, navy, etc.

Colorful denim seems like a no-brainer for casual looks, but I think its much more interesting to dress these colors up into date-worthy wear.

Perhaps it can’t be done (continued from above), but I accept the challenge–that is, making such colorful denim look like proper meet-the-parents-for-dinner-wear. I’ll follow up soon with the results.

Expect (hope) results to come out something like this:

more tips for the vertically challenged

  1. When wearing a suit jacket or blazer, it is even more important to short some cuff, at least ½ inch. This makes your arms look longer than they actually are.
  2. You want low buttons on a blazer or suit jacket, to elongate your torso.
  3. It’s even more essential to wear a slimmer tie because a 3 ½ tie or more can take up a good portion of your torso and make you look shorter, if you have a small chest. I prefer 2 ½ inches for both business and casual settings, but no smaller than 2 inches.
  4. To avoid the baggy shirt look, buy slim fit and tuck your shirt all the way into your pants. Then simply lift your arms straight above your head. This should give you the perfect amount of space so that you are comfortable and you show your belt.
  5. You MUST get your pants tailored for both length and perhaps width. Length is easy to tailor, just make sure it fits your waist well and the crouch is not near your kneecaps. You want either none or very little break in your pants.

Never Look Like This:


Other important information:

  • Don’t buy a size small just because it is is the smallest size in the store. If that does not fit, look for a store with an extra small or go into the big kid’s department.
  • The only big kid’s store I would go into is Brooks Brothers. They have great quality shirts for any size, and if you get them on sale they turn out to be very affordable. I found one the other day for $22.50!
  • If you do not mind spending more, Club Monaco has XS and their shirts are wonderful quality. They can cost up to $79.50 though. Try to catch them on sale.
  • For the New Yorkers, Uniqlo in SoHo has XS and they have very nice, quality dress shirts in all types of colors, and patterns (stick to pinstriped shirts as mentioned). Regular price is $39.50 but they go on sale as well.

-another short(er) man

Tips for the Vertically Challenged

Many of you, like myself, may have trouble finding clothes that fit you because you’re short.  It happens – you can’t help what God gave you.  However, you can change your buying habits and purchasing clothes that will be somewhat flattering to a smaller figure.  Follow the five-tips below to look and feel 2 or even 3 inches taller! (and no, one of them is not to buy 2 or 3 inch cowboy boots).

1.  DO NOT BUY BAGGY JEANS / SHIRTS

Unless you are a member of Kriss Kross, you shouldn’t be wearing baggy anything anyways.

2. SLIM-FIT

A smaller frame will almost always require a slimmer-fitting shirt.  Most dress shirts seem to come in the “extra-floppy”size and you look like you’re wearing a trash bag.  A number of store sell slim-fit shirts that will be a bit more flattering to your figure.  A lot of department stores have a good variety.  And even still, you may need to get it tailored if it doesn’t fit you right the first time.

3. STICK WITH THE SOLIDS

As short men, loud and obnoxious patterns (aside from being loud and obnoxious) make you look shorter.  You do not want to look like an optical illusion walking down the street in some plaid or checkered shirt.  Solid colors along with thin stripes will not only keep you in style but also stretch you a bit (or atleast appear to do so).

4. BUY THE FIT, NOT THE SIZE

I know that you may think you’re a small shirt, 32/30 waist, etc, but designers don’t make clothes to dress John Q. Person.  Make sure you try on the clothes before your purchase so you know how they fit.

5. KEEP IT THIN

When layering up with a nice shirt/sweater combo, try to stay with thin, solid v-neck sweaters or those with minimal patterns.  Bulky sweaters like the one grandma gave you for Christmas will swallow you like the girl next door.  And, it will make you look like David the Gnome (if you don’t know who that is, either I’m too old or you were deprived as a child).  The v-neck will draw attention to your head, shoulders, and neck, and may even make you look a bit slimmer.  Also, see rule #2 for slim-fit shirts underneath so you dont look bulky.

classic american style

Classic American Style never really left the building, but in the fashion world it’s taken the backseat to, oh, just about everything from across the pond.  In the eyes of the fashion elite, and well, a guy like myself, the words “American Style” conjure up images of ill-fitting sweatpants with words across the rear, Ugg boots, baggy cargo shorts, lived-in hoodies, and essentially, the clothing that defines the morning after (hangover)/life of the lazy.

However, in the past 2 years I’ve found myself going into the Gap… and buying things! Prior to that, I would poke my head in, make a face telling of bad smells, shake my head, and wonder… “why do people like this crap?” Luckily, Abercrombie is the old Gap (I’ve always disliked them as they forefronted this lazy McCrap look) and Gap is the new.. well, not trendsetter.. but on-par..er, er.

I don’t want to write an article entirely about the Gap, as, well, they don’t deserve all the credit.  A change in designers and a renewed focus as of late has really helped to bring them back to relevence.  A benchmark for casual clothing, they have grown up a bit, or, at least, cleaned up and trimmed up, somewhat, and, generally, about 1/3 of their collections are stylish evening/workwear these days.

For the style conscious, I’d still recommend altering a piece here or there (which is worth it when you get quality materials and craftsmanship) before taking it to the office (unless you happen to just be that perfect semi-boxy guy who fits everything off the racks– congrats! ps).  Though, with casual clothes, well, they’re casual, so tailoring is very, very optional and (usually) discouraged.

Nonetheless, today I’d like to just go through a random assortment of photos displaying classic American style (half of this stuff will have Gap-ish items, that’s why I had that whole introduction) throughout the past century, to give you some ideas and inspiration for classic casual style that doesn’t involve pre-destroyed denim and atrocious pre-washed/distressed t-shirt quality button front shirts… with mandals and a limited vocabulary that overuses the word “like.”

Well, I digress (often)… essentially, this is just a bunch of picture-hunting on my part that may be re-posted in the future with more, well-done classic American casual pictures.

Classic American Fashion:

JFK, cropped pants.

Random runway man, sporting an airy, classic look.

James Dean.

Call me juvenile, but I won’t apologize for throwing fight club imagery into manshion wherever possible.. American staples behind the scenes. I’ll excuse the undershirt.

Chunky crewneck, slightly cuffed jeans… Steve McQueen.

This pic ruins the ambiance, admittedly… but the style and the man’s talent are respectable.

JFK rules. Tonal layering, effortless style. Plus he’s on an effin’ sailboat.

Tone on tone, I forget this guy’s name, but it’s from a Gap ad.

::Punches an inanimate object back into working order:: “Eyyy”

Richie Cunningham, upstaging. Fonzy in his standard issue.

Clooney and a dog. CLASSIC (over-exaggeration).

Connery back in the day, take note on how to wear a polo properly.

more on cropped pants and rolled up pants

About two weeks ago I first explored the cropped pant look.  For those that missed it, well, the name says it all.  Men. Pants. Shorter. Ankle. Ending.  That’s the shortest way I can describe it.  Chinos and trousers, cropped is the way to go for the occasional summer-wear look.  Chinos and jeans, however, may (safely) benefit from a simple rolling.  GQ first started hinting at this in their pages early this year, and perhaps, I may be stealing their wording, but upon practice I recommend but “a simple double roll-up of the jeans/chinos”.  Just enough to expose the ankle when standing, and not so much that the rolls become the focal point of your entire look.

Well done with chinos:

Well done with jeans:

Notes:

  • Pair this look with boat shoes, canvas deck shoes (some), oxfords (brown or black but either way, probably with some character), or white bucks.
  • Slimmer pants is a no-brainer, however, a fashionably pleated, roomier trouser may be acceptable if done right
  • Belt or no belt, depends how you want to dress it up/down

If you need any more inspiration, or find this a little too “on the edge of manliness” for your own tastes, well, I’ll let Elvis do the talkin’.

So, now you pretty much know it’s a good idea.

skinny jeans

What once started as a rockstar and rock-fanboy trend, the skinny jeans of the last 5 years have finally come to the masses. The days of searching the women’s department in walmart for tight, yet somewhat manly-looking jeans is over (thank goodness!… said ‘thanks’ not spawned from personal experience).

Note: I know dudes who did this back in the day (actually just 5 years ago… they were in a band, or were roadie/showgower types… they also used to “dance” at hardcore rock shows in these skinny pants… don’t for a second think they were some dreamy-eyed, little waist-down cross-dressing mates though… “dancing” for them actually looked more like a 3 hour brawl where karate, moshing, crowd surfing, and sometimes just pure unadulterated bare knuckle fighting occured) [in short... those blood stained, ciggarette scented, petite wranglers went effin' HARD]

Anyhow, yes, the slim jean (and what trendy men’s clothing isn’t slim these days?) is very much in. However, like all trends and fashion waves, there are varying degrees.

Conservative… Narrow(er) if you will:

Fashionable Dude (this is about the limits of generally accepted manshion principles)

Super Hip Style… you might just be too cool for school, to each his own, though… I’d suggest a lumberjack style flannel shirt atop these anorexic little numbers, just to throw a concrete block of masculine in the mix. However, hats off to rock stars and those among us mere mortals who pull these off on a daily basis (you’ve either got some real “chutzpah” or some good friends who dress just like you)

There ya go, fella’s. Pick your poison. Whatever you do though, baggy is certainly not an option anymore. Sad, really, that those old baggy with carpenter pocket Hilfigers from a decade or more ago, will, unfortunately be reduced to lawn-moving apparel.

[Note: this should have been done just about a decade ago as well.]

****Edit****

Skinny Jean Law:

  • Wear men’s pants, flat out.
  • Noting the 1st comment below: if you are a heavier man and/or have exceedingly large thighs, go for option number one– relaxed and slim. Option number 3 on you is not a walk in the park for you or anyone involved.
  • If you kneecaps and their every crevasse, bulge, and contour can be made out distinctly through your jeans, you’ve gone too far for the average man